Camera Blog Information -- YAGH -- Lenses and Equipment -- GH4 Profiles -- RX100 -- Sample Videos -- Orange42 on YouTube -- Trevor Mander on Vimeo
Update December 29, 2015: Updating general GH4 profile and lens suggestions. This looks like an interesting 5 axis gimbol for under US$1000.
Update September 24, 2014: 4k Desktop Samsung 28 and 1080 monitor
Update March 24, 2014: EOSHD has featured my picture as part of a post! Read and enjoy.
March 22, 2014 - The coming Panasonic GH4 is an interesting alternative to the professional level broadcast video camera. Instead of 10, 20, or even $30,000, the GH4 will retail for under US$2000.
It allows for 4k 10bit 4:2:2 output via its onboard HDMI socket. That means as soon as someone invents a 4k hdmi recorder (they don't exist yet) users will be able to make use of the highest quality recording ability.
In a brilliant interview with Zacuto, Matt Frazer described this signal path:
This means you won't need to purchase the external YAGH breakout box. The better option is to get lenses.
I don't think playing around with different prime lenses is the way to go on such a device.
Constant aperture, bright, zoom lenses with autofocus and stabilisation are so much more practical for the run and gun videographer.
The Panasonic X vario lenses may be the ones to go for.
Matt Frazer replied to my post on 43rumors.com with the following information:
"I am the Matt Frazer from the video and yes you are correct that the YAGH is not neccessary for the output of 4K video in any flavor we offer.
I would warn, however that there are real benefits to the conversion of HDMI to SDI, here are just 3.
1. Length of cable runs, Once you get a chance to output 4K over HDMI you will see that it is very unstable with runs over 6 or 7 feet. SDI gives you far greater range (hundreds of feet)
2. HDMI cables, paticularly micro HDMI, can easily come out of the camera and you can loose your recording or have a blip occur in the video.
3. Timecode, per a conversation I had with the lead electrical engineer on the YAGH project, timecode is NOT in the HDMI steam, it comes to the YAGH through 1 of the 5 new pins on the bottom of the GH4.
If you need timecode in your outboard recorder, you will need the YAGH to pass it along.
By no means do I think everyone will need a YAGH, in-fact many on the lower budget of video production will not be able to afford one at the launch so I wanted them to know it is a nice to have item, not a need to have.
Thanks Matt for being awesome and helping us get to know this new camera.
For video a lot of people seem to really like getting the Metabones (Smart Canon to MFT) adaptor with the Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 Andyax shows what this combo can do.
Otherwise, MFT lenses are much lighter and seem to do the job.
Panasonic 12-35 - A great general use lens. I tend to use it more for video as the stablisation is good.
H-X025 25mm F1.4 - My favourite lens. Almost always use it wide open. Lack of stabilisation is annoying. A cheaper version is the brand new 25mm F1.7 (H-H025K) that was originally released on a world-wide special for US$99 (and promptly sold out). Both look the same.
H-HS043 42.5mm F1.7 - Same kind of colour rendition as the 25mm and includes stabilisation. I much prefer it to the Olympus 25mm version but don't seem to be using it a lot.
Rokinon 7.5mm F3.5 - Nothing wrong with this lens. Can be used as a fisheye or de-fished 4k to give a nice wide angle. I definately recommend it.
H-FS100300 - My current zoom lens. I've used it a lot while out and about. Having the RX100 for close ups and this lens fitted for the other shots works well. Could be sharper at the 300 end but look what you can get from it with Rugby Days and the Big Moon. The coming Panasonic-Leica 100-400 will undoubtedly be better but much more expensive.
14-140 - For walk-about convience and travel pictures this would be the go-to lens. If you have to stop and change lenses you risk missing the shot.
Lowepro Slingshot 202 AW Bag - Really a great bag. For sale at at PBTech, it's a great buy. If you're moving up to a system camera with lots of lenses then this bag is one of the best options available. Not only does PB Tech have this for a great price, it does all the things a practical photographer needs. I was surprised to see only the one shoulder strap but on the first shoot with it I found out why that's so useful. The bag just rotates around to sit on your front so you can change lenses safely, even on the beach. Then it rotates back onto your back without any trouble. I use the Panasonic GH4 and only the 100-300 zoom uses the full height available in the lens spaces. There's more than enough spaces for all the lenses and lens hoods and the zip side opening means everything stays put - there is no risk of everything going onto the floor. The bag becomes your mobile desk and lens changing area at just the right height! The additional zipped section above the main area is great for the sound recorder and compact camera. And last but not least, the other zip panels around the bag provide lots of flatter storage areas for wires, cards, and other random things. This is the best camera bag I've owned and has gained lots of positive complements from friends. Highly recommended.
Tascam TM-2X (US$85) - the audio mics on the GH4 are a bit rubbish. This addon gives remarkable audio that plugs straight in (input on -12). I found the best fluffy for it is the Windtech MM51.
Tascam DR40 - a lot of mics seem to sound nicer with the bass roll-off at least 120Hz. Make sure the sound level is around the triangle marked on the scale which is about -18dB. These recorders so NOT sound good if you set the gain too high. Allowing peaking up to 0dB will sound bad. Normalise the recording in post.
Tascam DR70D - better preamps than the DR40. Easier to set levels. Forgets date when you take the batteries out to charge - e v e r y t i m e...
Generally speaking, the less you tweak the image the GH4 has recorded the better, ie. it's best to find a default programme that suites you than shoot flat and count on grading in post.
Video Exposure: I use a Tiffen variable ND. Get the highlight zebras going and adjust the ND so the picture is as bright as possible without your important stuff blowing out (the point the zebras disappear). Easy.
This is my favourite colour profile at the moment when using the 25mm 1.4. Photo Style = Portrait, Contrast = +3, Sharpness = 0, Noise Reduction = 0, Saturation = -3, Hue = -2, Highlight/Shadow = -5/0, I.Dynamic = 0, I.Resolution = standard, Master Pedestal = 0, Luminescence Level = 0-255. This does seem to give very nice natural looking skin tones.
For Night shooting, I've had great results from using a Vibrant colour profile: -3 highlights, 1/40th, 800iso.
F stop: I usually don't go over F6.3. Past F8 brings increasing bluring due to diffraction. If you want to keep the shutter at 1/50 for motion blur then use an ND filter to reduce the incoming light rather than increasing the F stop too high.
Slowmo of fire: Best to use a tripod and turn image stabilisation off. Fire looks best if not clipping highlights so shooting in the dark is not so important as everything will have to be underexposed compared to the fire.
vLog: You have to use ISO400, otherwise you get extra noise. Some care must be taken if using LUTs as some will work fine and a similar one might break everything. Extra sharpening in post needed. Only mild grades.
Will have to try these settings for astrophotography http://www.lonelyspeck.com/sony-rx100-series-astrophotography-review/
• RAW • Manual Focus • ND Filter: Off • White Balance: Daylight or Custom: 3900K • Long Exposure NR: Off • SteadyShot: Off • MF Assist: On • Peaking: Off • Live View Display Setting Effect: On • Self-Timer: 2 seconds (reduce camera shake) • Manual Exposure And as far as exposure settings on the RX100, I’ll generally shoot zoomed all the way out with the following settings: • 20-25 seconds • f/1.8 • ISO 1600
Bence Mate in Hongarije - the first show reel
Seafoam - GH4 on a drone
The Camera Store TV
Bryan Harvey and his flying shots - marred by focus problems on 5 or 6 of the shots.1